Feel free to make whatever you’d like, but I see no reason mead posts can’t go in homebrewing. I don’t make mead, but still would find the posts interesting.

If it’s brand new, I strongly recommend passivating first with citric acid. Soaking in citric acid removes free iron at the surface, then the chromium will react with oxygen in the air to form a protective shiny barrier. I didn’t passivate my kettle first and got a small buildup of iron in the trub and some slight staining. It’s not a big deal and the beer is totally fine, but I still would do it if I bought another one. I just let it soak in acid, then wipe it clean with a paper towel (while wearing gloves) and let it air dry. Citric acid also removes beer stone from kettles and is pretty cheap.

Idk my cat is just an asshole, and I keep him out of the basement so he doesn’t steal my o-rings.

Some people also call them Jerry cans. Here’s an example on Amazon. I think they were originally made for water storage. cube

The historical significance of anchor is really neat. It’s everywhere in San Francisco. Reminds me of Narragansett in Rhode Island.

Actually I’d suggest buying hop plants. They are more established than rhizomes, so you will get hops sooner! I bought mine from great lakes hops I think and I would recommend them. I currently grow teamaker hops.

I’ve been no chil brewing for about 5 batches now and have noticed no ill effects. In fact, I’ve made some of my best beers. The only thing I don’t like is that cleaning the cube is a bit of a pain in the ass, and I don’t have any surplus hot water to clean my pump and kettle with. I think I definitely end up using a lot less water overall though which makes me feel good. Water is cheap and plentiful where I am so that isn’t a huge deal, though I do like the saved time during brew day. I’m trying to make my IPAs more bitter anyway so that part doesn’t bother me.

I’ve made some very clear beers with no chill with no whirlflock/Irish moss. I don’t notice much of a difference.

Nice. You might be able to cut your boil time way down if you wanted. Maybe a pain if you are already dialed in with your system efficiency and whatnot though.

8oz is a huge dry hop charge. Sounds good. No boil hops?

Yeah I do like a little Munich in a standard IPA or pale ale, but I don’t think double IPAs need much more than a darker pale malt. I think you are correct about stirring but I’m too lazy. Just going to make a slightly smaller batch next time.

I’ve been brewing IPAs in plastic buckets for years, and I make some pretty good ones without taking too much special care. I don’t really think a whole pressure fermentation kit is necessary to make hoppy beers. I do think kegging makes a big difference. I imagine bottling could result in a lot more oxygen ingress. I also can drink my kegged beer the next day, so that’s nice.

I’m going to keg an IPA today made with 90% marris otter 10% table sugar, hoped with Idaho 7 and Mandarina Bavaria, then dry hopped with BRU-1. I am trying to make something Pliny the elder/heady topper inspired, so quite bitter, no oats/wheat, heavy on sulfates, and heavily dry hopped. This is my first iteration with another to follow in a few brews. This one also used a Kveik blend I had on hand. Next one will use verdant dry yeast.